Buy 3M(TM) Positionable Mounting Adhesive 568, 24 Inches x 50 Feet3M(TM) Positionable Mounting Adhesive 568, 24 Inches x 50 Feet Product Description:
- Clean, dry, long-lasting, odorless adhesive
- Allows repositioning of items to be pasted up or mounted, then applying pressure bonds permanently
- Available in 50 ft long rolls, 16 in, and 24 in wide
Product Description
Clean, dry, long-lasting, odorless adhesive. Allows repositioning of items to be pasted up or mounted, then applying pressure bonds permanently. Available in 50 ft long rolls, 16 in, and 24 in wide.
Customer Reviews
Most helpful customer reviews
4 of 4 people found the following review helpful.
Perfect Product
By Ann
I've been using this product in a Museum exhibit setting for years. As a smaller museum, budget is everything. I am able to easily and quickly mount photos and exhibit text that will hold up for several years, making them reusable for traveling exhibits. Professional design firms or skilled exhibit production staff are not in our cards. PMA is a tool our small organization uses to produce a fabulous looking exhibits.
2 of 2 people found the following review helpful.Great Stuff - Here are a few tips...
By Sharon ES
I bought this adhesive in the 16" x 50' roll for mounting large photos and posters to foam board for framing. Basically it's like a giant roll of double-sided tape, except the stickiness seems more like a super-heavy-duty post-it-note adhesive. The one thing you need to watch out for is the sticky little rolly-balls of adhesive that form in the process of cutting this stuff (it gets on your scissor edges, blades etc). It's easy for these sticky balls of rubbery glue to stick to your fingers and other surfaces and get transferred to your art. You can remove them, but they're tenacious so it's best to use avoidance techniques like wiping your cutting utensils with rubbing alcohol and checking your work space for these glue-balls if you're doing multiple projects. That said it's not a big deal, just keep an eye out for them. So far this adhesive has worked great for my projects and is so much easier and less messy than spray adhesive. Spray adhesive can end up all over the place and you find yourself wondering how many years you're taking off your life breathing in tiny particles of chemical adhesive.The basic directions are: Roll out the adhesive paper--it's sticky on the inner side of the roll. Place your artwork onto the sticky surface and cut exactly around the edge of your art using scissors or a blade and straightedge--this is the point where you need to watch for the pesky sticky balls. Turn your artwork face down and use the provided burnishing tool (looks like the end of a plastic spatula) rubbing it back and forth across the adhesive backing paper to get the sticky material on the paper to transfer to your print. Slowly lift the backing paper up, peeling it away from your artwork. As you're peeling, if you notice a spot where the adhesive hasn't transferred and is still holding onto the backing paper, stop and burnish that spot a little more--so far that's all I've needed to do to get it to release. Once you've removed the backing paper, you're almost done. Carefully position your sticky-backed artwork onto the foam board (get a helper for this step, it's easier with two sets of hands). Then use the burnishing tool again rubbing it across every inch of the artwork so the adhesive will form a strong bond between your art and the foam board (a special piece of non-stick paper is provided to place over your art to protect it during the burnishing steps). Last step, cut your foam board exactly to size and you're done. It's pretty easy.For mounting a 24 x 30 image, I placed the first piece of adhesive on the back of the print, then abutted a second piece right next to the first, (no overlapping) it was easy to do--no evidence of a line--simple. As mentioned, it's helpful to have a second pair of hands when you reach the point of positioning your sticky-backed artwork onto the foam board--this is especially important for mounting a large piece. Also, don't cut your foam board to the exact size until AFTER you've adhered your work as it's about impossible to place your art just exactly in the right spot when you've already cut the foam board to the finished size. Save yourself the aggravation and stress and cut your foam a little larger, then trim the excess afterwards.What's particularly gratifying is the simplicity. The first time I tried this adhesive paper, I was unsure of what to expect so started by mounting a 4x6 snapshot to foam board. I highly recommend this step as you'll feel more confident about tackling a larger and more important piece of art. After the test-run I mounted a 22 x 28 image I'd made into a poster. It was easy and turned out great.In the past I've tried spray adhesive but (likely due to inexperience) the artwork eventually developed several bubbles of trapped air between the print and foam board and of course looked terrible. I can't see this issue occurring with mounting paper as it's a perfectly even coat of adhesive--there's no guess work as to whether you've sprayed enough adhesive where it's needed. At first glance this product may seem like an expensive choice compared to buying a can of spray--BUT when compared to having your work professionally mounted, it's worth it. Bite the bullet and you will find it pays for itself after a couple of projects and is SO much easier and cleaner to use--resulting in an infinitely more satisfying finished product than spray adhesive.
1 of 1 people found the following review helpful.
Can be difficult to work with unless you use this trick!
By Phillip D. Breske
I bought the 3M Positionable Mounting Adhesive (PMA) as an alternative to expensive dry-mount tissue and the associated press that is required to use it. After reading some other reviews, I knew it would be a bit of a hassle, but still far less expensive than dry mounting.I first tested the PMA on a business card and it worked well, but the small size didn't reveal the biggest problem when working with large printed photos: The PMA has a tendency to create long, web-like strings of adhesive from the edges of the print to the PMA backing paper as the print is pulled from the surface. These strings can be as long as two or three inches, and when they finally break, they tend to wrap around to the front of the print, creating an impossible-to-remove glob of glue along the front edge of the artwork. But I've found a fix!Before you lay your artwork on the PMA sheet, adhere a border of low-stick painter's tape around its edge. Position the tape so it covers the edge but does extend beyond it; you don't want the tape to pick up any PMA glue. Then follow the instructions for the PMA and after the artwork is placed on the backing board, carefully remove the tape from the artwork. If you peel the tape perfectly parallel to its orientation on the artwork, any glue from the PMA sheet (and there won't be a lot) will snap cleanly along the edge of the piece instead of back onto it. I used this trick on my last batch of photos and not a bit of glue snapped back onto the prints. If you do get a small glob of glue on the backing board, it can be picked up with a small tweezer. (Don't try to rub it off; it will only make a mess.) I also remove the tape BEFORE the final burnishing to make sure the thickness of the tape does not create some kind of indentation on the print.Make sure to use what's called 30-day painter's tape. The adhesion for this tape is very low, so it normally peels off easily and without pulling up any of the underlying surface. Mine is made by 3M (imagine that!) and is purple in color. It barely sticks to any surface, but that's exactly what you need for this temporary and delicate use.One other tip: Don't wear gloves when working with the PMA. If you get any of the glue on the gloves, it won't come off without a great deal of effort and possibly the use of some kind of solvent. Make sure your hands are clean and when you get the glue on your finger tips (trust me, you will) you can just rub them together to get rid of the glue. You really don't have to worry about the glue getting on the artwork if you use the tape trick as it protects the edges where you would normally handle the piece from anything on your fingers--an additional benefit of the tape!
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